I’m staying up at Jahorina, the venue for the women’s downhill races in 1984. Hard to believe it’s only about 20 K from downtown Sarajevo. Up here it’s quiet, cold, and you can breathe the air. The skiing looks quite good, and there are cars from all over – Russia, Montenegro, Serbia, Croatia. It’s the kind of place that must have been a happening winter vacation spot back in the depths of the cold war.

During the Bosnian war, several of the ski venues became artillery bases. The Serbs would shell Sarajevo from the commanding heights. I don’t think Jahorina was one of those, but I’m not totally sure. As Sarajevo is surrounded by mountains on all sides, the encirclement must have been terrifying.

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